John Rawlings and the glamour of the 50s

Book image: John Rawlings 30 Years in Vogue

If there is one fascinating photograph in the history of fashion photography, it is this one. Published in Vogue in 1953, it shows Mary Jane Russell in silk pyjamas with a glass of wine, on any given night. The scene, as evocative as it is sexy, transports us back to the glamorous 1950s. Behind the lens are the hands of John Rawlings , one of the most renowned fashion photographers of the 20th century, whom we remember through his immense photographic work.

Rawlings revolutionized the fashion and advertising industries. He began his career as a professional photographer when Joseph Platt, the set designer for "Gone with the Wind," showed his portfolio to Condé Nast publications in 1936.

Suzy Parker photographed by John Rawlings, 'Vogue', October 1953.

Like any good beginner, his career was forged as an apprentice to great photographers such as Cecil Beaton and Irving Penn. He worked for this magazine for three decades until 1937, when he was sent to London to work for the British edition of Vogue with the aim of changing the design and appearance of the magazine. By 1941, he had already created 8 covers for the magazine, including photographs of Bette Davis and other famous actresses of the time.

A year later he revolutionised fashion photography by being one of the pioneers in using famous models for his covers. His technique forever changed the history of fashion photography.

In 1945, Rawlings opened his own photography studio in New York. During his spare time, Rawlings experimented with lighting and mirror techniques, which allowed him to continue creating modern and dynamic covers and campaigns for Vogue. His photographs have always been characterized by their use of color.

John Rawlings shot around 200 Vogue and Glamour covers throughout his career and is credited with producing a total of 30,000 images.

He portrayed prominent figures of the time such as Marlene Dietrich, Veronica Lake, the Duchess of Windsor, the writer Truman Capote and Salvador Dalí himself.

In 1961, Rawlings photographed his last Vogue cover, featuring model Monique Chevalier.